Elsa Schiaparelli's 'Lobster Dress'

The image of Wallis Simpson posing in the Lobster dress is interesting because at first it strikes me as rebelling against the conventional. At a first impression, the dress looks like a wedding dress, but then the eye is immediately drawn towards the image of the lobster that contrasts starkly against the white of the dress.

The styling of the dress conveys a sense of modesty, and graceful femininity. Her shoulders are covered with a delicate shawl, and I believe it is meant to create a sense of grace and elegance. The background is beautiful- out in nature, with soft lighting around her, creating an almost angelic impression.

The image, although it is obviously posed for, does not have that feel to it. It is not clearly taken in a studio with harsh lighting, but instead is outdoors and gives the feel of ‘looking in’. It is depicted from a distance, and she appears to be unaware of the camera, or does not pay it any attention. Although the background is quite busy, it works extremely well. The dress is striking enough to not let the background take over, and in fact the trees and the lighting add to the whole image. It creates a gentle, romantic atmosphere. The image is telling a romantic story. It is a very soft, feminine picture. The bouquets she is holding, are a hint towards her upcoming marriage, and again help with the image of the innocent bride.

 The image was taken shortly before Wallis Simpson’s marriage to Edward III. At the time this photograph was taken, she did not have the best reputation, having been divorced twice before. I believe the photographer was trying to cast her in a much more angelic, flattering light. It is interesting however, that the dress with the lobster was chosen, as lobsters were known to have a sexual connotation behind them, as lobster is known as an aphrodisiac. This does slightly contradict the overall feel of the photograph, however Schiaparelli said “Women shouldn’t be afraid of being conspicuous, but should dare to be different”, so perhaps this was her thinking behind the dress, as the lobster against the white dress lends it quite a rebellious feel.

The image was aimed at the general public, to cast her in a more favourable light, as well as those who criticised her for marrying into the Royal Family, having been divorced twice.